Abbeygate Street was originally known as Lear Lane. Around 1777, it
was renamed Abbey Lane, and received its present name in the nineteenth century.
Lear was an Old English word meaning empty or barren, which suggests that the
land was unproductive, The side entrance to Marks & Spencer's stands where
St James's Street South once branched off Abbeygate Street. St James's Street
South ran through to New Orchard Street and Philip Street, and consisted of 26
large houses, mostly built in the 1740s. On the western corner of Abbeygate
Street and St James's Street South stood the Talbot, which may have dated from
1620, when Sir Giles Mompesson issued a licence for an inn of that name It was
a timber-framed building which Major Davis believed was built by the Abbey around
1500. In 1762, James Atwood, a brassmaker, whose workshop was next door, leased
the Talbot from the Corporation. In 1763 he advertised for a tenant: To
he lett, a very good-accustomed house known by the sign of the Talbot in St James
Street, Bath, with the stock of beer, consisting of between 10 and 40 hogsheads,
all entire sound and good, together with the horses, vessels and brewing utensils;
also the boxes and tables, copper sign and sign iron; with some other fixtures. In
1796, it was advertised for sale as "that desirable public house, the Talbot,
comprising two commodious dwelling houses in St James's Street and Abbey Lane,
now in full business and in the occupation of William Tucker." The Talbot
seems to have had close links with the Raven a few yards away in Abbey Green.
In 1806, for example, Arthur Cook, the landlord of the Talbot, moved to the Raven.
Twenty-six years earlier, in 1780, Thomas Bell had also moved from the Talbot
to the Raven, but he caused what must have been no end of confusion by renaming
it - temporarily - the Talbot & Raven. The Talbot was renamed the Painter's
Arms in the early 1840s. It survived until 1851, when William Titley took the
lease, together with that of "the house in the rear," a "salt house
at 8 Abbeygate Street," and an adjoining salt refinery, "on the understanding
that the old buildings are to be forthwith taken down and rebuilt." On
the north side of AVjbeygate Street was a " messuage or tenement called or
known by the name of the Nag's Head," which closed around 1780. There
was also a Chequers in Abbeygate Street, which closed around 1782. Before the
redevelopment of the area in the 1740s, the Abbey gateway straddled Lear Lane
just beyond its junction with St James's Street South. After the dissolution of
the Abbey, John Hall of Bradford-on-Avon acquired part of the land inside the
gate. In 1620, he granted a building lease to Edward Byam. In 1631 or 1632, Byam
increased the size of his plot, and built Nos 5 & 6 Abbey Green {now 5 Abbey
Green and 7-8 Abbeygate Street, the former NSJ Levi Store and Evans' Fish Restaurant).
The south wall of the building incorporated an old boundary wall which can still
be seen in the alley beside Marks & Spencer's. This was the Raven, which may
have been a pub from the start, although the first reference to it comes no earlier
than 1759. In July 1778, it was advertised for sale as an "inn or public
house called the Raven ... with convenient stables [and] a remarkably healthy
cellar room, sufficient to contain one hundred butts of beer." The Raven
also claimed to have the best private clubroom in Bath; among the clubs that met
there were a friendly society and a catch club. Although a raven appears in
several coats of arms, it is believed that the sign of a raven in the eighteenth
century indicated Jacobite sympathies. In the late eighteenth century, the Raven
had a variety of names, including the Druids' Head and the Bladud's Head. In 1812,
the Sussex Masonic Lodge started holding their meetings at what was then known
as the Bladud's Head, prompting the landlord, John Purnell, to change its name
once again, to the Freemasons' Arms. In 1832, Charles Gear took over the Freemasons'
Arms and embarked on a full-scale refurbishment, including the installation of
the large round-headed windows on the first floor. He renamed it the Freemasons'
Tavern and announced its relaunch in the Bath Chronicle on 1 5 March 1832: Charles
Gear respectfully informs his friends and the public that he has, at considerable
expense, fitted up the above house with a view to the comfort and accommodation
of those who favour him with their company, and he intends to supply a good article
on reasonable terms. Steaks, chops, etc. at the shortest notice ... Old wines
and spirits, London and Bath papers daily. Five months later, however,
another advertisement appeared in the Chronicle announcing an auction of the tavern's
contents. The following March, Mr Gear received a letter; Take notice that
I have this day, by virtue of the warrant from Mr Orchard vr. landlord taken and
distrained the several goods and chattels mentioned in the inventory hcreunder
written and impounded them in the premises for the sum of £30 arrears of
rent of the house you rent of him situate in the Abbey Green in the City of Bath
and known by ihe name of the Freemasons' Tavern: Kitchen: fender &. irons,
4 saucepans, pot, kettle, plate rack, frying pan, gridiron, 3 chairs, candlesticks,
warming pan, 2 dish covers, lot of ware; Garret No 1: Bedstead, bed & bedding; Garret
No 2: 2 bedsteads, 1 bed & bolster, 2 blankets & quilts; Attic no 1: Field
bedstead, bed & bolster, bedding, basin, stand & ewer; Attic No 2: 4 best
bedsteads of furniture, feather bed ik bolster, lot of bedding, basin & stand,
basin & ewer table, chest of drawers, 6 carpets; Drawing Room: Bagatelle board
& balls, 6 cables, k chairs, 7 stools, lamp, 3 blinds, sundries; Parlour:
4 tables, 2 blinds; Bar: 6 spirit cocks, beer engine, 35 beer measures, 2 sets
spirit ditto, 40 various glasses, 6 bottles, tcaware, 6 stools, counter, 2 tables,
glass, fender, irons, 9 beer cans, sundry fixtures; lap Room: 4 tables, 2 stools,
fender; Cellar & stable: 7 casks, beer pulley, pony & harness. After
Mr Gear left, the Freemasons' Tavern went downhill fast. By 1851 it was one of
seven pubs in Bath which the police wanted closed, on the grounds that the "keepers
of these houses, after repeated cautions, had some of them kept open their
houses on Sunday mornings, and others allowed prostitutes and other bad characters
to resort to them." Despite this, it soldiered on till 1911. The 1903 report
on its facilities, however, suggests that they left a lot to be desired. There
was a urinal in the corner of the yard, without a flush, which was described,
with a degree of understatement, as "unsatisfactory." In 1912 the
Freemasons' Tavern was advertised for sale at "a public house, now unlicensed
at 6 Abbey Green, a messuage, tenement and stable used as a brewery, and a yard."
It was bought by Arthur Evans and turned into a hostel for girls of slender means
and a temperance restaurant called the Abbeygate Tavern. The part of the building
fronting Abbeygate Street later became Evans' Fish Restaurant; in July 2005, Black's
camping and outdoor store moved into the building. The archway leading into Abbey
Green from Abbeygate Street, incidentally, which reinforces the impression
that the former Freemasons' Tavern is two separate buildings, only dates from
1973. In 1789: Thomas Farmer opened the London Inn & Tavern on Abbey Green.
Three years later, in November 1792, it was taken over by John Thomas, before
disappearing from the records. There is no clue as to its exact location, although
it may have reopened around 1851 as the Crystal Palace. Lilliput Alley, leading
off Abbey Green, was originally known as Segar's Alley, then as Evelyn Street,
anct there was once an attempt to call it Abbey Green Street. Today it is officially
called North Parade Passage, although, not surprisingly, most people prefer to
call it Lilliput Alley. The history of the range of buildings on its northern
side is no less complicated. For a start, the level of the pavement is much higher
than it was originally - so much so, in fact, that what is now the ground floor
of the houses on the north side was once the first floor. What is more, they were
once the other way round - or,to be more precise, their back entrances were once
their front entrances. It is hard to imagine, picking our way down the grubby
alley at the side of the Huntsman, that this was once the front way into Sally
Lunn's and the buildings either side, but one look at the architectural embellishments
and ashlar blocks on this side (in contrast to the rubble stone on the other)
should convince us. And, if more evidence is needed, it is provided by early maps,
which show these buildings looking out across a bowling green to the Orange Grove.
|