There
are two things which must strike every stranger, that has "eyes to see, or
ears to hear," on his first visit to this singularly interesting town, especially
when he listens to the tales of old folk about it-the first is its evident antiquity,
and the second, the ecclesiastical imprint that is to be discerned everywhere. I.
As to its antiquity there can be no doubt. It is certainly among the oldest of
Wiltshire towns. The only others mentioned in really ancient times are, as far
as I know, Amesbury, Corsham, Calne. Chippenham, Cricklade, Malmesbury, Ramsbury,
Old Sarum and Wilton. As early as A.D. 652, we read of an important battle having
been fought at "Bradford-on-Avon" by Cenwalch, King of the West Saxons,
which, followed up as it was by another contest six years later, against the Welsh
at the Pens in which he put them to flight as far as the Parret," led to
important results as regards a large accession of territory in these parts of
England gained by the conquerors, and indirectly to the re-establishment of Christianity
here. For Cenwalch, who had abjured Christianity and at the same time repudiated
his wife, and had been in the year 642 driven temporily from his kingdom, no sooner
regained it by the battles at Bradford and at the Pens, than he returned from
his apostacy, and became not long afterwards the founder of a Church at Winchester.
And it is of no little interest to us to know, that Aldhelm, whose name should
be so well known and reverenced here as the founder of our Saxon Church, that
cradle of primitive Christianity, was nephew of King Cenwalch. II.
As to its ecclesiastical character, this seems impressed upon us by the quaint
and church-like look of so many of its buildings. Each of the old limits of the
town was at one time guarded as though by an ancient chapel-those of St. Laurence,
St. Olave, St. Mary at Tory, St. Margaret, by the bridge, St. Catherine, near
the old almshouses-five ecclesiastical barbicans, two of them still remaining
to us in good preservation, and the sites of all the rest being well known. Nor
is this ecclesiastical character surprising when we recollect its history. Here,
as early as A.D. 705, St. Aldhelm founded his little Church, and what is called
his "Monastery," by which is meant a Church and dwelling-house with
three or four missionaries, as we might say, attached to it. No doubt for many
years after this, Bradford-on-Avon, though otherwise as regards its "monastery"
and Church, an independent foundation, and certainly not supported by any means
derived from Malmsbury, owed allegiance to that religious house and to its Abbots
from time to time. Thus in the year A.D. 1001 we find the whole manor of Bradford,
together with its Monastery-then called cænobium-bestowed by King Æthelred
on the Abbess of Shaftesbury, the specific object of this gift being to "provide
the nuns of Shaftesbury a safe refuge (the exact words are impenetrabile confugium)
from the attacks of the Danes, and a hiding-place for the relics of the blessed
King Edward, then recently martyred, and the rest of the saints. And for more
than five hundred years the manor of Bradford was in the hands of the Abbesses
of Shaftesbury for the time being. This may well account for the ecclesiastical
character of the whole place. But
we will stroll round the town and speak in turn of each of the objects of interest. 1.
We will start from the most interesting of all our treasures, the SAXON CHURCH
OF ST. LAURENCE, which stands close by the north-east end of the present Parish
Church. Both Churches no doubt originally stood in the same churchyard, the extent
of which was at one time much greater than at present. The story of the discovery
and gradual re-purchase and re-habilitation of this little Church-ecclesiola,
it is called by William of Malmsbury-has often been told, and therefore I need
not here tell the tale again. Suffice it to say that it consists of a NAVE, a
CHANCEL, and a PORCH on the north side; that originally there was a similar annexe
on the south side, so that the building was cruciform; that the Nave is about
twenty-five feet long by thirteen broad, the Chancel thirteen feet long by ten
broad, the Porch may roundly be described as about ten feet square. The height
of the building is very remarkable, in the Nave being rather slightly, and in
the Chancel considerably, greater than the length, in either case. There are also
two interesting stone figures of angels above the Chancel arch, which, if not
quite coeval with the building itself, can hardly in any case be later than the
tenth century since in the Benedictional of St. Æthelwold which is of the
date 970-975, there are figures of angels which correspond very closely with them.
In any case there is now a general agreement among all who are qualified to form
an opinion, that we have in this most interesting "little church" a
building which was founded by St.. Aldhelm (who died in 709), and which is a solitary
perfect example of a Church of so early a date. 2.
We now come to the PARISH CHURCH. This is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It consists
of a Chancel, Nave, North Aisle, Tower, and a Mortuary Chapel, erected by one
of the Hall family, on the south side-the last being now used as an organ chamber.
The north aisle was built at intervals of some fifty years apart, the western
portion, extending to the eastern side of the fourth window, being the earlier
work, and having been a chantry chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas-the reredos in
the centre of which stood over a crucifix still remaining as a structural portion
of the wall-the eastern portion having been a chantry chapel of the blessed Virgin,
founded by one of the Horton family, whose brass, recording the last fact, is
still preserved. As is the case with all ancient Churches, there have been alterations
and additions made from time to time. Fragments of an earlier Church have been
found, and are to be seen still treasured up in the porch of the Saxon Church.
The present structure no doubt originally consisted simply of a chancel about
two-thirds of its present length, and a nave, and there was a row of Norman windows
both above and below, the latter being more accurately described as clere-story
windows. Two of the large Norman windows in the chancel have lately been re-opened.
Towards the end of the thirteenth century the chancel would seem to have been
lengthened {picture of the Saxon Church of St. Laurence, Bradford-on Avon}
and the two recessed tombs inserted, one on its north side and the other on the
south side. Next followed the aisles, originally, as has been said, two, but now
joined in one. In the beginning of the sixteenth century followed the tower; and
then the mortuary chapel of which mention has been made. The Church contains
memorials of the families of Hall-the maternal ancesters of Earl Manvers-of Methuen,
Tidcomb, Stewart, Thresher, Shrapnell, Clutterbuck, Tugwell, Cam-the maternal
ancester of the late Lord Broughton,-and Bethel-a family ennobled in the late
Lord Chanceller Westbury. 3.
Leaving the Church, and passing up the steps on the western side of the tower,
we stand before a house of some interest. It belonged once to Edward Orpin, [EDWARD
ORPIN, the Parish Clerk, died in June 1781. The name "Orpin" occurs
frequently in our register during the previous century and a half, but after his
time we lose traces of it altogether, and he seems to have been one of the last-if
not the last-of his family. The stone lying just within the rails, opposite-the
house-is said to cover his remains.] the parish clerk of Bradford, and was probably
built by some of his family. He was the "Parish Clerk" whom Gainsborough,
the artist-a frequent visitor to this neighbourhood-painted. The Portrait was
given by him to Mr. Wiltshire, and became the property of his descendent, who
lived at Shockerwick. On the sale of his pictures after his decease the one we
are describing was purchased for the nation, at a cost of some £800, and
is now to be seen among the paintings by English artists in the national collection.
Gainsborough died in 1788. 4.
We pass on now till we come to the western entrance to the churchyard, where on
the north side of a modern building, dignified by the name of Abbey House, are
the remains of what Leland speaks of as "Horton's House." The Horton
family were well-to-do wool merchants, and, as we have already seen, benefactors
of the Church. The mansion which one of them built was afterwards in part used
for shops for the weaving of cloth. And as the Flemish workmen, introduced first
of all into the town for the purpose of such manufactures, were quartered, or
at all events plied their craft here, the yard was called to a very recent period
the "Dutch Barton," There is a deed in existence by which, in 1659,
Paul Methuen covenanted with the parish officers, that a certain spinner, by name
Richard (otherwise) Derricke Johnson, whom, together with his wife Hectrie, and
several small children, he for his own proper gain and benefit did fetch or bring
out of Amsterdam, in Holland, should never be chargeable to the parish. There
is a similar deed in the parish chest, dated 1674, endorsed, "Mr. William
Brewer his bond of £100 to save harmless the Parish of Bradford against
certain Dutchmen," whom he had brought over from Holland, or " Powland
" for the purpose of promoting, as they did effectively, the manufacturing
trade in cloth in Bradford. 5.
Walking on down Church Street, and passing by a little knoll called " Druce's
Hill "-so termed from one Anthony Druce, a Quaker, who built a house there
in which he lived-we come to a large and interesting building, mentioned by Leland
in 1543 and called by him the "CHURCH HOUSE." This, which is of the
date of the fifteenth century, was built by one of the Horton family, and was
the public place of assembly where people met for the purpose of assessing themselves
and their neighbours for the expenses of Church repairs, the relief of the poor,
&c. On the principle of, "business first and pleasure afterwards,"
as soon as they had attended to the wants of others, they had a little care for
their own, and indulged in festivities known as Church-Ales, Whitsun-Ales, and
the like. It was purchased a few years ago by the trustees of the Saxon Church,
and given in exchange for the portion of that building which had been used for
the purposes of a free school. The free school was afterwards transferred to the
Church-house, and it is still there. 6.
We now arrive at the TOWN HALL, a handsome building, erected some years ago, about
1854, on the site "'of some old gabled and interesting houses, the removal
of which took away one of the most picturesque groups of buildings in the town.
Opposite to the Town Hall are what are called respectively HORSE STREET and THE
SHAMBLES. The former derives its name from an old inn called the "Scribbling
Horse," (a corruption of,. "Scribbling Herse,") the last name denoting
a frame on which the cloth when first made was stretched in order that it might
be scribbled (i.e., cleared by the teasel from all its inequalities), an operation
formerly done by the hand, but now by machinery. The latter, now confined to a
narrow paved passage between shops, was termed the Shambles because of the butchers'
stalls which were there, or it may be in the Market Place immediately adjoining,
in the lower portion of the Town Hall, of which, we shall make more particular
mention presently. 7.
We pass through THE SHAMBLES; on our way we must notice on the right the old barge-boards
on the houses, and the fifteenth century doorway of what is an [picture of the
Old Gabled Houses, The Shambles, Bradford-on-Avon] inn, now called the Royal Oak.
We pass a narrow lane on the left called Coppice Lane, an indication in its name
of the close proximity of the wood to the town at one time, and enter Silver Street,
called at different times Fox Street and Gregory Street, presumably from the names
of some old inhabitants there, and stop for a moment before a small draper's shop,
then kept by Mr. Jennings. This house has some little interest from the fact that
here John Wesley, when he came at different times to visit his community here,
had his lodgings. One traditional tale is told concerning him. One morning, when
he came down, as was his wont, at an early hour, he congratulated his host on
owning a "truly English bed." "Why, Mr. Wesley?" was the inquiry,
"Because," was the answer, "it has no notion of giving out." 8.
Pursuing our onward course, we pass first of all WHITEHEAD'S LANE-so called from
one Manasseh Whitehead, a copyholder there-and come to a narrow passage between
houses now called CUT-THROAT LANE, a corruption I imagine for the less alarming
"CUT THROUGH" Lane-a fair description enough of it-and so we come to
the corner of WHITE HILL, the former portion of which is possibly a corrruption
of a word signifying " wood," as in Wit-ley near Melksham, and here
we reach the site of one of the old chapels of which I have spoken, namely that
of ST. OLAVE. All traces of the chapel are now removed, but in documents of the
last century we have the street described as "vicus Sancti Olavi," otherwise
"Tooley Street," Just as Tooley Street, in Southwark, is so called from
the Church of St. Olave (e.g., St. Olaf, contracted into "T Olaf, and so
into Tooley,) so it was the case here, The street has now by a kind of attraction
assumed the name of the tithing to which it leads, namely Woolley Street; originally,
however, Woolley was "Ulf-lege," and so called from an owner of the
name of Ulf, who is mentioned in the Domesday Book. 9.
We now arrive at KINGSTON HOUSE the most beautiful specimen of domestic architecture
in the town. It partakes much of the character of Longleat, and was built probably
between 1590 and 1620. It was commenced probably by John Hall, who was married
to Dorothy Rogers, and who died in 1597, and completed by his son, bearing the
same Christian name, who married Elizabeth Brunne, of Athelhampton, and who died
in 1631. This house may be described as of the transition style, between the old
Tudor or Perpendicular and the new Palladian. Its enrichments are of German invention,
and the excess of window light is characteristic of houses of this date and style.
It is of such that Lord Beacon said, "they are so full of glass that one
cannot tell where to become to be out of the way of the sun or of the cold."
The principal front is to the south; it is divided into two stories with attics
in the gables, and has large windows with thick stone mullions. The whole building
may be divided into three portions, the central one coming forward square and
the two side ones with semicircular bows. In the centre is a large sculptured
doorway to a porch, and the summit of the window-bays is adorned with open parapets. The
last of the Hall family left all his property to "'. Rachel Baynton, of Chaldfield,
who was married to Evelyn Pierrepont, the son of the Marquis of Dorchester afterwards
first Duke of Kingston. Their only son, who became second and last Duke of Kingston,
succeeded in due course. It is from that noble family that this house came to
be called Kingston House. On the death of the second Duke without issue, subject
to a life interest to his Duchess, the property descended to his sister, the wife
of a son of Sir Philip Meadows, the ancester of the Manvers family. It remained
the property of the last- named family till 1806, when it was sold to Messrs.
Divett, who turned it into a storehouse for wool, and allowed it to go to sad
decay. In 1848, happily for all who would fain preserve ancient buildings, especially
those of interest and beauty, it was sold to the late Stephen Moulton, Esq., and
it was to his generous enterprise, and exquisite taste, that a building equal
to any in the County as a specimen of domestic architecture is seen by us in its
original form and beauty. 10.
We pass through the grounds of Kingston House and come into a lane-now called
Kingston Row, but formerly, as it would appear, Frogmore Street,-till we arrive
at the old Market Place. It was at this spot that one Trapnell-a name familiar
enough to us in connection with Chaldfield-was burnt publicly for so-called heresy,
in denying the King's supremacy, in the year 1532. Against the wall of what is
now the Royal Oak stood the OLD MARKET HOUSE; the lines of the roof gable may
still be traced. I have been favoured by one whose early youth was spent in Bradford
with a description of this old building. He says, the Old Market House was
originally of what might be termed three stories. The basement or cellar was on
a level with the street opposite the shop now occupied by Mr. Budfgett Jones,
the entrance joining the Royal Oak, and was used some sixty years ago as a crockery
store. The second storey was an open colonade looking up Coppice Lane, and was
full of Butchers' stalls-whence the name of 'The Shambles,' occupied by the country
butchers. The [picture of the Hall (sometime known as Kingston house) Bradford-on-Avon]
entrance was on the level of the Shambles, and the storey itself consisted of
three plain round columns, one at each angle between them being wooden palisading,
and a central column; to this last, the ne'er-do-wells who were sentenced for
some offence or other to have a whipping were bound, when suffering the wholesome
penalty for their misdeeds. The third or upper storey consisted at one time of
a room in which the courts were held and the business of the manor transacted.
But in my time (1820) it was in ruin, and the staircase leading to it was gone.
I remember, however, that it had three quaint projecting windows of a square-headed
form, with thick deeply-moulded oak frames, which were filled with small diamond
panes of glass, and looked into the Old Market Place. I remember the upper part
falling down, whilst, the lower was still for some years afterwards used by the
butchers." I may as well add a few words as to the ultimate fate of the
Old Market House. For some years no repairs were done to it, and it gradually
became more and more dilapidated. Again and again presentments had been made concerning
it, as a place not only unfit but unsafe to transact the Lord's business
in." Once the borough jury were hold enough to present the steward for not
attending to their presentments in this particular. But all was in vain; no attempt
was made to sustain the tottering fabric, and one night, it is alleged, the building
fell. Whether its fall was the result of accident or design -tales are afloat
which favour the latter supposition-men cared not too curiously to enquire. Till
a recent period, the man was living who carted away the materials of the Old Town
Hall, which he had previously purchased for the sum of twenty shillings! 11.
We now turn to the left and shortly find ourselves at the foot of the TOWN BRIDGE,
with its interesting CHAPEL on the eastern side of it. The bridge itself, as an
examination of it soon shews, was at one time not only narrower in width, but
shorter in length. If you look underneath the arches from a lower level this fact
is soon apparent. In truth, the original centre of it is pretty well half way
between the chapel and the commencement of the bridge from the Market Place. Originally
it was used only for pack-horses and foot- passengers, or at the most very light
vehicles, the heavier waggons and other conveyances being taken over the ford,
which was at this point broad and shallow. The bridge was lengthened towards the
southern side, but the force of the current is still against what were originally
the central arches, between which is a strong and not inelegant "cut water."
The construction of the Old Chapel is also worth examining, at all events as regards
its lower portion-for the upper portion would seem to have been a construction
of later date-with its graduated corbelling and the elegantly-designed shaft on
which it is erected. What its object was originally is more or less matter of
conjecture. Standing as it did at the foot of the bridge on the south side, some
have thought that it was simply a toll house, one of the places at which were
collected dues which were demanded from all who came into the town to sell their
various wares. Others have assigned to it a higher object, and Aubrey says of
it-" Here" [at Bradford] "is a strong and handsome bridge, in the
midst of which a little chapel as at Bath for masse." So that possibly, as
the Hospital of St. Margaret was close by, in fact at the bridge-foot, it may
have once contained the image of the patron saint, and to have been a place for
receiving at once the devotions and alms of passers-by. Before the building of
the present Town Hall it was used as a temporary lock-up for the offenders against
the laws. The vane at the top of this interesting Chapel is "a fish,"
and it used to be a common saying among Bradford folk, as they saw some culprit
being "run in" to this strange lock-up, that "he wer' a gwoing
auver the water, but under the vish." 12.
All traces of the Hospital of St. Margaret, which was standing in Leland's time,
for he speaks of it as "of the Kinges of England's foundation," have
disappeared. Its memorial is preserved in the street which is still called St.
Margaret Street, and in Morgan's Hill, close by-pronounced by the old folk of
Bradford Margan's Hill-and as lately as 1724 called St. Margaret's Hill. It must
have been close to the bridge, and probably included amongst other property that
on which stands the house now owned and occupied by Mr. George Spencer, a house
that derives some little interest from the fact that there once lived in it Dr.
Bethel and his distinguished son, who became Lord Chancellor of England, and was
ennobled as Baron Westbury. Nor must we forget, as we pass other houses close
by, that one on the left-hand belonged once to the family of Shrapnell, one of
whom was the inventor of the once famous "Shrapnell Shell"; and that
in the other, on the right-hand, a well-known and deservedly esteemed Nonconformist
minister, the Rev. W. Jay, of Bath, found a retreat for his declining years. We
advance onwards a hundred yards or so, and we come to the old men's Almshouses,
founded A.D. 1700 by John Hall, Esq., for four poor men. Over the Almshouse is
a shield with the "battle axe " carved on it, the crest of the Hall
family, with an inscription under it, "Deo et Pauperibus. The administration
of this charity is now in the hands of Earl Manvers, the lineal descendent of
the founder. 13.
From the old men's Almshouses we come appropriately enough [picture of the Chapel
on the Town Bridge, Bradford on Avon] to those for old women. These are situated
close by the canal. They are of Pre-Reformation date, a small payment from the
Lord of the manor, due from time immemorial forming part of the endowment. There
is still to be seen a small relic of the Chapel of St. Catherine, to whom the
"hospital "-using this term in its original sense-was dedicated. Even
till a recent period Catherine-tide, or as the old folks call it Kattern-tide,
was duly remembered, and many a one in Bradford reckoned their ages from it. Thus
an old woman once said to me, I be vower-score come Kattern-tide."
Till quite lately the really old-fashioned among us used to send presents of small
cakes, called "Kattern-cakes," to their friends, in memory of this festival. The
Almshouse, in which, until three years ago, there were but three women maintained,
came to be in a sadly ruinous state. A legacy bequeathed for the purpose by the
late Mr. Bubb enabled the trustees to build three entirely new houses some twelve
years ago. Increase in the income of the charity, and a better system of management,
permitted of the erection of a fourth Almshouse some three years ago, and the
addition of another poor almswoman to the recipients of the benefits of the charity. 14.
But leaving the Almshouse of St. Catherine, and turning down a lane on the left
hand, and passing the "Pound," in which stray cattle were once placed
till their owner might claim them, leaving on the right a field called CULVER-CLOSE,
because there at one time was the dove-cot or pigeon-house (from the Anglo-Saxon
: culfre = dove, or pigeon,) we come to what is called BARTON FARM, the homestead
of the lady of the manor, or of the chief farmer, who held it under her, and was
called the Firmarius. Of the house itself, as regards its ancient portions, hardly
anything is left. A small portion which seems parcel of a gateway, and a small
apartment annexed to it, is nearly all; and the date of this would hardly be earlier
than the fifteenth century. But the glory of Barton Farm is its magnificent BARN,
which is like a long nave with double transept, being 180 feet in length, and
30 feet in breadth, -indeed including the trancepts no less than 60 feet broad.
The object of so large a building was to house the crops from the farm itself,
and also the tithes which in early days were paid in kind, as well as to provide
shelter during winter and inclement weather for the flocks and herds. It is generally
called an Early English Barn, and the older and more pointed arches of the transeptal
entrances, into which the more recent and depressed ones have been inserted, can
still be distinctly seen. The construction of its massive roof is not only skilful-
it was built in a time when men grudged as it would seem neither labour nor materials-but
ingenious. The roof-timbers are all so framed from the ground as to be as far
as possible independent of the walls, and so to minimise the lateral thrust which
their great weight would otherwise exert on the building, to the great detriment
of the walls. On the surface of the stones in the interior can still be traced
the various "marks" of the masons who were employed in the original
construction of the building. By making a collection of them -for each master-mason
had his distinctive mark, which he was obliged to leave on the surface of each
stone which he had worked, instead of as now on the side that is embedded in the
wall-it would not be difficult to make a rough calculation as to the number of
masons employed in the building. The date of the barn may be put down at about
c. 1300-1350. It is strange that we know not at all who built it. Aubrey, when
he came to visit us, now two-hundred years ago, thought that he saw as one of
the finials a " battle axe," the crest of the Hall family, and seems
to intimate his belief that one of them built it. But John Aubrey was certainly
deceived, as he well might have been, for he does not speak as though he had inspected
the building, but as only having seen it from a distance. There is no finial at
all like a " battle axe," nor is it known that any of the Hall family,
at any rate at so early a period, had anything to do with the manor. At the
same time there was a man of note, who, at the very period when, as we conjecture,
the barn was first built, may have been its bold designer. This was Gilbert de
Middleton, who held the manor of Bradford under the Abbess of Shaftsbury at that
precise period, and was virtually Rector-for as such he appointed Richard Kelveston
to the Vicarage of Bradford in 1312- and who could at all events well afford to
indulge his building tastes. For he held prebends in the Cathedrals of St. Pauls,
Chichester, Hereford, Wells and Sarum, besides being (in 1316,) Archdeacon of
Northampton, and Prebendal Rector of Edington. He was moreover, we may conjecture,
not unknown, or at least not without interest at Court, for in 1321, we are told,
"the King" (Edward II.) "granted him that he should not be disturbed
in any of his benefices." Though it is of course wholly conjecture, yet I
sometimes think that this same Gilbert de Middleton may have had a hand in building
the barn. If not assisted, like others similarly situated, by the landlady in
chief, the venerable Abbess of Shaftesbury, he may have had a very beneficial
lease granted to him of the Manor, by way of recouping, him (picture of The Barton
Farm Barn, Bradford on Avon) in part for the necessary large outlay. 15.
But leaving the Barton Barn, and crossing the pretty little ancient bridge, with
its five arches and the piers, each with its elegant cut-water so arranged as
to break as far as possible the force of the stream in time of floods, we come
to what is called BARTON ORCHARD, and so to a large house on the right-hand which
is termed CHANTRY HOUSE, a name also given to the field immediately adjoining
it. The site on which the present house stands, as well as the field referred
to, were at one time the endowments of the Chantries which were founded
in the parish Church; and possibly also on the same site there once stood a smaller
dwelling, in which the Chantry Priests lived. The present house has been from
time to time added to and altered, and looks as though its oldest parts may date
from the fifteenth, or at any rate the sixteenth century. It belonged, some two
hundred years ago, to the Thresher family, from whom it was purchased, about 1741,
by Mr. Samuel Cam, a leading clothier and active magistrate of the town. One of
Mr. Cam's daughters married Sir Benjamin Hobhouse, and their eldest son John
Cam-afterwards raised to the peerage under the title of Baron Broughton
de Gifford-inherited Chantry House. On his decease it descended to his nephew,
Sir Charles Parry Hobhouse, Bart., and by him was sold a few years ago to its
present possesser, the Rev. J. C. Thring. 16.
We now visit the spot whence issues the water supply, which for so many centuries
has sufficed for the needs of the town. This is called LADY-WELL, perhaps because
it belonged to the Lady Abbess at Shaftesbury, or perhaps (as we would fain believe
more probable) (picture from The Barton Bridge. Bradford-on-Avon) from the dedication
of the little chapel at the very top of the hill, (the more so, as the water all
comes from the hills behind it), as though it were the well of Our Lady,
that is, of the "Blessed Virgin." Noted for its purity for centuries,
the sanitary diggings, and the engineering proclivities of modern times, have
contrived, though only temporarily in useless hope, to damage its fame, and even
the supply provided for themselves by the poor folk of Bradford at their own cost
and trouble is pronounced impure. We will hope, however, now in a very short time
to have a pure supply of water to our town, though an archrælogist may be
forgiven for expressing a passing wish that it had been found possible to preserve
a supply about which there was at all events more than a temporary interest, otherwise
than by the rough-and-ready expedient of closing it altogether. 17.
We now climb a steep hill called WELL-PATH, and at the top of it we find ourselves
by the side of what is called TORY CHAPEL, and also, by Leland, termed the HERMITAGE.
The word TORY is no doubt little else but the old word, common to Celtic and Teutonic
dialects (W. twr and A.S. tor) which signifies a high eminence; in fact our word
tower is its modern equivalent; and the situation verifies the name, for it is
the very highest part of the town itself. By Hermitage is not meant
one of those primitive hermitages, the simple purpose of which was to allow some
recluse to live the life of a devotee, but one of those useful single houses which
were stationed in various places to afford a traveller food and shelter. There
was a "chapel" here, which the wayfarer might use for his devotions,
a small hall in which he might have a simple meal, and a spare room in which he
might find a night's shelter. It was, in fact, one of those hospitals-using
the word in its primitive sense-not unfrequent in these parts-there was one at
Chapel Plaister, and another at St. Auden's, Wraxall-in which the pilgrim bent
on a religious errand, such as a visit to some holy place or shrine, might at
all events find food and shelter on his journey. The recluse" or "hermit"
lived here, and received such guests from time to time. It was an effort on the
part of our forefathers in the middle ages, to carry out the precept once given
to God's ancient people, "Love ye therefore the stranger; for ye once were
strangers in the land of Egypt." 18.
We pass along TORY, a name given to the terrace, so to speak, that runs along
the very top-rank of our town, and at the end of it we see on the right a building,
now deprived of some of its interest by having been made so bran-new and bereft
of all its luxuriant ivy tresses, but which ought to have a passing notice. It
was one of the earliest non-conforming places of worship, and was called the GROVE
MEETING HOUSE. It was built about A.D. 1698, shortly after the passing of the
Act of Uniformity, and the first minister was one of the ejected clergy, who previously
had been at Calne. 19.
Ascending the hill still, we go through what is called the CONIGRE, a common name
enough, and signifying a "rabbit-warren," and then turning to the right
we arrive at last at CHRIST CHURCH, built now some 35 years ago in a style of
rigid simplicity, but now, by the addition of a chancel-almost the last work of
the late gifted architect, Sir Gilbert Scott-and the use of mural decorations,
and introduction of stained glass, a Church that is well worth a visit. But we
are strolling beyond the bounds of our town, and we will content ourselves with
saying that the Church in question is a wonderful example of the way in which
the genius and taste can transform an unattractive building into one which even
the most critical can hardly fail to admire; for the grand effect of its chancel,
and the chastened beauty of its mural painting. 20.
We now descend the hill-down what is called Mason's Lane-and at perhaps its steepest
part, we stand before a large dwelling-house, which till quite a recent period
was called "Methuen's," but on which some thirty years ago, was bestowed
the fancy name of "THE PRIORY," though no religious house ever existed
there. It is a house that has portions of it of the date, it may be, of Henry
VI., and the hall is especially worth seeing. There are still within it some memorials
of the Methuen family, to whom it belonged for more than a century. It was built
originally most probably by one of the Rogers family, the first of
whom, Thomas Rogers, described as serviens ad legem, i.e. Serjeant
at Law, lived about 1478. The Rogers family was settled afterwards at Cannington,
in Somerset. From Hugh Rogers, of Cannington, this house was purchased by Paul
Methuen, in 1657. Some hundred years afterwards, in 1763, it became the property
of the Tugwell family. From them it was purchased in 1811 by John Saunders, and
it is now the property, as well as the residence, of Thomas Bush Saunders, Esq.,
the oldest of four county magistrates. 21.
We come once more, after leaving this house, through Pippet Street, to the front
of the Town Hall-a point which we have already visited on our stroll round Bradford.
As to the meaning of "Pippet Street" we have long been puzzled. A suggestion
was made, at the time of our ramble, that after all it might be simply a corruption
of the word Pie-powder, which is from the French pied-poudreux (literally
dusty-feet; whence its name in Latin, Curia pedis pulverizati) a name given to
a Court once held in fairs, to administer ready justice to buyers and sellers,
and to redress at once disorders committed in them. Certainly the one fair
of the town, at Trinity-tide, has from time immemorial been held here; and no
doubt in ancient times, as in our own, prompt administration of justice, and summary
rectification of wrongs, must ever have been esteemed a boon. |